10^th Day 2018 West of San Sebastien to Errezil

         Amazing day!

         Threatening clouds erased the clear blue skies.  I hurriedly pack, skipping breakfast.  A steep and long down mirrored the up out of San Sebastien turn for turn.  Coming down one slope my cap flew off and was several meters up the road.  A Spanish cyclist going in the opposite direction brought it back.  Amazing whenever someone breaks his routine to help someone out.  He had also done touring preferring panniers in the mountains and a trailer on the flats.

         I had breakfast in the seaside town of Orio.  From there I rode the coastline to Zamaii before turning south to Azpetia where the sanctuary of Loyola is.  The road along the coast was absolutely spectacular!  Not to be missed.

         Outside of Azpetia one of those rare moments in my tours happened.  A man standing by his car in a pullout waved me over.  He had spotted my BOB trailer as American.  After exchanging pleasantries Andoni invited me to stay with his family in Errezil, a small village 10 km outside of Azpetia.  He and his wife and traveled extensively including two years in the US and had enjoyed the hospitality of many Americans.  I readily accepted his gracious offer. 

         Before heading to Errezil, I visited the sanctuary in Azpetia.  This is the family home of St. Ignatius, the founder of the Jesuits, and a huge cathedral next door.  You can also stay in the Hotel Arrupe, named for a former General Superior of the Jesuit Order.  For someone who had been taught by Jesuits and had taught in a Jesuit school for 51 years this was a special moment.  His story is not unfamiliar but to walk the stairs and halls of his home was very special.

         After several hours exploring the  sanctuary I headed out to find Errerzil.  Andoni shouted as I passed by the village church.  His family was most welcoming.  There was a picture of two bikes on the mantel with mountains in the background.  Thinking that it was somewhere in the US or Europe was my mistake.  It was taken in Tibet on their way to Laos and Japan.  They wanted to visit China but had a problem with visas.  Their second child, a son, was born in Bolivia.

         In the evening we moseyed down to the town festival.  Most of the town was already seated at long tables inside a large sports area that looked like a midsize Jai-a-Lai court.  Appetizers and wine were already on the table.  Salad, pork ribs, French Fries, dessert, coffee, and liquer followed at a steady pace, all for 20 euros.  Loud chatter flooded the hall.  Maia, their daughter, was mesmerized by the Rubik’s cube and actually learned the first three moves. 

         After eating everyone wandered over to listen to live music which went on until early morning.  We gave up around 1:30.  What a unique and unforgettable experience!  Thank you Andoni!

         The family is staying temporarily in a odd configured house while their own home is remodeled.  Andoni is from the immediate area while Alice is from Brussels.  He has given up engineering for the life of an organic farmer.  They even bake bread on Mondays.  They sell their products on consignment to families in the vicinity. 

         They had many stories to tell.  His grandfather had been shot during the civil war in 1937.  Franco’s men came to the village looking for people supporting the revolution.  They lined up the men indiscriminately and opened fire.  “Kill them all and let God sort them out.”  His grandfather took a bullet in his left side and fell to the ground feigning death.  One soldier began executing the coup de grace. Barely halfway through the officer hollered to stop and head to the next village.  He wanted to finish there before nightfall.  Soon after they left, the villagers came out to help the wounded.

         Alice contributed that unlike other revolutions the republic side lost and everyone remained silent about such incidents until Franco died.  We must not forget that the other side won the Russian revolution and forced their singular view until 1991.

         What a day!!!

Happy trails to you until we meet again!

Much joy!!!
Hardy